If you've tried out Satin & Matte Liquid Lipstick Bases, you know already that these bases are a little trickier to work with than a standard Lip Gloss Base. Glosses are transparent, and they don't require much color to fulfill their intended use - to add shine to the lips. A gloss might look colorful in the tube, but it may still apply clear if only a small amount of pigment is used. When formulating a liquid lipstick, we don't want a product that applies sheer or colorless. We want deep, rich color that lasts on the lips! To achieve this, it's imperative that we use the right pigments.
And thus our new paste colors were created! Most lip product formulators and entrepreneurs are familiar with liquid lip colors, which contain a matte (no sparkle) pigment such as a lake dye or oxide powder that is finely milled in castor oil. The milling process is vital for creating a smooth pigment that won't leave clumps or streaks in your lip product. Lip Kit laboratory uses a 3 roll mill to incorporate the powdered pigment into the oil for a smooth and creamy liquid pigment. We did the same thing with our Paste Colors, except we increased the pigment to oil ratio. Our Liquid Colors contain 20-25% pigment, and our new Paste Colors contain about 50% pigment. We add just enough oil to wet the powder for the milling process. This results in a thick, intensely pigmented paste that still blends into your lip base smoothly and effortlessly, without clumps or streaks.
So, why would you need a thick, super pigmented paste?
When working with our Liquid Lipstick bases, as mentioned above, the goal is to create a pigmented lip color. No one wants a sheer matte lip. Because of the physical makeup of a liquid lipstick base, much more color is needed to achieve opacity. Often times, so much color must be added that we end up adding too much oil just to get the right pigment percentage in the final product. In particular, our Matte Liquid Lipstick Base will reject an excess of oil. Matte lipsticks are made with a variety of volatile silicones that dry down once exposed to air. Oil does not dry down or evaporate. In fact, the oil counteracts the silicones. They aren't compatible. If you've ever accidentally added too much liquid pigment to our Matte Liquid Lipstick Base, you probably noticed that the lipstick got rubbery and didn't stick to your lips at all. Matte lipsticks are typically removed with an oil based makeup remover, so adding too much oil based pigment will simultaneously remove the lipstick while you're applying it! A small amount of oil is okay, but too much will cause issues. Our Satin Liquid Lipstick Base contains a combination of silicones and oils, and won't remove itself when oils are added, let adding a lot of liquid color could thin out the lipstick base too much. We created our Paste Colors to contain over twice as much pigment as our Liquid Colors, allowing you to add the necessary amount of pigment to our Liquid Lipstick Bases without going overboard on oil.
Why mill the pigments with oil in the 3 roll mill if oil isn't compatible with the silicones in the base?
In regards to lake dyes in particular, the FDA places strict rules on the uses of such pigments. These rules are in place to protect you and others from consuming too much of these aluminum based powders. One rule is that each lake dye must be Batch Certified. There are rules in place on what we can combine these pigments with, too. All of our liquid and paste colors are milled in a base of Castor Oil, which is approved by the FDA. These mixtures are also not subject to additional batch certifications, as long as they contain only a Batch Certified pigment, and an approved additive such as Castor Oil. These mixtures can be safely added to your lip products, and you can rest assured that everything sourced from Lip Kit Laboratory is within FDA guidelines for lip cosmetics.